Some people like the IIIC because it was the last and most feature laden of the line. Many repairmen refuse to work on them. All frames are visible all the time, giving a cluttered feeling. Worse, the finder or rangefinder spot are not all that bright. It also has a tendency to collect flare over the years.

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Some people like the IIIC because it was the last and most feature laden of the line. Many repairmen refuse to work on them. All frames are visible all the time, giving a cluttered feeling. Worse, the finder or rangefinder spot are not all that bright. It also has a tendency to collect flare over the years. Well, perhaps when they were new. Front element? It makes for a more compact camera. To remove the a front lens component, all you do is rotate it counter clock-wise.

It clicks right in or out. These MUST match for you to have a properly working 50 mm lens. Would you believe a 35mm wide-angle? Even worse, this baby is NOT rangefinder coupled!! You have to first focus the 50 mm rangefinder, get a footage figure, then transfer that figure to the wide or tele lens!

Are you really desperate enough for lens choices to tolerate this? I hope not. Small yes, but why not smaller?? Left to right. OK, the rewind knob is not so strange. But what about that strange manually setting film counter? You have to push down on that little button beside the counter, while you push that button on the backside of the top plate visible barely from the top view.

The counter counts backwards, showing you how many shots you have left. Also notice the arrow direction next to the rewind knob, also a late IIIC feature. LVS value? We are now looking at the bottom of the camera. To open the back, turn that in the direction of that little arrow around the tripod socket.

Underneath you will find not an Easter Egg, but a little button which you push to open the back. To the left is the bottom mounted film advance and shutter cocking lever.

That button is the film rewind button, but also unlocks the film advance. When you get to the last exposure, the shutter and advance lock until the film counter is set back. You do that with the above mention methods, plus pushing in on the film rewind button.

Note the soft aluminum advance lever which scars so easily. Left pic, working down to up. Notice that large button near the bottom edge of the picture, and another one in the other picture. Those are the locking buttons for the lens. To retract the lens 1 make sure the lens in at the infinity focus 2 push those little buttons in 3 close the door.

Still on the left pic, work up and notice the focusing scale and the depth of field indicator. Right pic shows the focusing lever on the right corner of the photo. It has to be in this infinity position for the camera to close. Above that is the loathed LVS system. This system may be fine while you are taking pics in the same conditions, but as light conditions change and you want to adjust exposure, this extra step really becomes a nuisance. To the left notice the PC connection.

It thoughtfully aims the PC connector straight down so it can fall of more quickly and easily. The LVS system locks the shutter and aperture into combination which moves together. Thus changing one automatically changes the other. The LVS scale and lock are not so conveniently found on the bottom side of the shutter.

Also note the focusing lever, which MUST be at the infinity position for the lens to collapse. Better 35 folders? I personally find both the Zeiss Contessa and the Voigtlander Vitessa much better made and well finished cameras. Contessas currently sell for about half of the IIIC price. So why get a IIIC? I will agree that the IIIC is a fine picture taker.

The problem is that there are far better choices All rights reserved. Information in this document is subject to change without notice. Other products and companies referred to herein are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective companies or mark holders.


The German Kodak

You will notice that this clicks into place at each setting, to ensure accurate shutter speeds. When one selects a faster shutter speed, the aperture-speed coupling automatically opens the lens aperture. Adjusting the aperture to a smaller stop alters the shutter setting to a slower speed, thus keeping the exposure constant all the time, If you want to set the exposure without reference to the light value, make sure that you adjust first the shutter speed and then the aperture. If you do it the other way round, the aperture-speed coupling would alter the aperture when setting the shutter speed. To set the shutter speed, turn the shutter speed ring, until the required speed figure is opposite the shutter speed Index mark To change the aperture, pull the light value setting lever 26 slightly outwards and move it to the required value on the aperture scale Even when you have set the exposure in this way, you can use the aperture-speed coupling to adjust either the aperture or the speed at will by turning the ring It may also happen that the aperture lever or speed ring reaches the limit of its movement when adjusting the aperture speed coupling to the required aperture or shutter speed respectively.



In many of these fields the ground-glass screen is a distinct advantage. Page 3 The Retina Reflex IV of has, in addition to the exposure meter indicator in the reflex finder of the Model III, aperture and shutter speed values shown in a window in the finder, a red warning signal when taking pictures in extreme lighting conditions and a fresnel screen for greater brightness. Page 4 Lifting it up to the eye is then a matter of a split second. For convenience and protection the Retina Reflex should always be carried in its ever-ready case.


Kodak Retina Series

This model was made from My unit, with the Synchro-Compur shutter and Retina-Xenar lens was produced between June to Spring , according to this historical chart. I was fortunate to buy a unit in excellent condition with the leather case and original instruction manual. Using the text or images on this website without permission on an ebay auction or any other site is a violation of federal law.



Dogore The aperture to reina used can be Obtained from the so called guide numbers which are included with each package of flash bulbs. Point the camera at the subject, directing it slightly downwards. For incident light readings the camera is point ed from the subject towards the taking position. If iici forget this setting, you may obtain incorrect light values and thus wrong exposures. This method is particularly suitable far determining the light value in against-the-light shots and snow subjects, as well as close-tips. So try a few positions to find which suits you best.

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