Mikalkis Louise October 21, at Thanks for a great blog — it is very very helpful. I had already cut the fabric with no seam allowances to compensate for my stretch fabric but it was still too shapeless. The cutting lines where you have opened new darts will also need to be trued up so you will have smooth transitions from center front and neckline like this: This is the second Lutterloh pattern this year that has sewn up too big for me. Did you have a specific question about Lutterloh that you wanted to ask?

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We are a couple of fans of the Lutterloh patterns who love to sew clothes that fit. You too can successfully make a wardrobe from your Lutterloh pattern book. Be sure to check out our side bar for links to Lutterloh dealers and all of our best tricks! Finished P. What does it tell me? Looks like the front shoulder is dropped and the dart has been moved to the shoulder for some slight gathering. I will also need to look at the pattern to really see what is going on with the pants. I scan both pattern and picture from my Lutterloh book and print so I can write on it and use it fully.

Now I look at the pattern. The pants look loose and they have an elastic waist that will sew up quickly! The top is marked for a facing, see the hatch marks? The PJ top back has a neck dart, that will keep it fitted nicely. The sleeve is straight cut so it will be comfortable. These are real laze around clothes I see. There are but very few pieces so I will have these made in no time. I should remember to trace over the facing while the patterns are still taped to my table Here we go I bought a wide fold up table perfect for any pattern and puts away easily.

This is in my kitchen where I have lots of light! One to tape under the pattern cross and one in case I loose the first. I have a collection of Lutterloh tape measures. Some are very old The best ones have the marking hole clearly marked by the number. The red and black numbers are only for making it easier to read and it does! I use colored fine tip markers for making the dots and a pencil for outlining the pattern. I often make changes in the outside line for my body shape adjustments and pencil is best.

I keep all the small stuff in this zippered pouch it is very handy! You may have gotten a cardboard tailors curve with your kit. You can buy plastic ones from Lutterloh and other locations. I use a light weight white pattern paper for making my patterns on. This lets me hold the pattern up and test if it is a good fit. Paper testing. Tape the little piece of wood to the center of your table.

This protects your table from pin holes and holds the pin firmly while you pivot for marking the pattern parts. I scan my pattern to the exact size I hold the scan and the real pattern up to a window and compare the outside lines I never poke holes in my real patterns.

By putting a hole in the pattern before putting on the tape you will not end up missing the middle of the cross. One of these tapes is old and it does not have arrows pointing to the hole for the numbers. The newer one on the left has little arrows pointing to the numbers so no worries with this one. If you have one without arrows go to the top number see that the hole for rests under the number, at the end of the line. Watch carefully if using a tape like the one on the right. Before I tape things down I like to test and see if the largest number on the pattern will fit where my papers goes.

I stretch out the tape and test. For the marks above the waist I use my bust measurement I am careful to mark these numbers on my pattern in case I do make choices different than the norm. See where the little block is under my paper and pattern I push the tack into the wood and save my table! I go to my first number 32 and I line up my tape with the line next to the number. Then I smooth my tape down as I stay at the angle of the line until I get to 32 and I put a dot The dark line under each number is the correct place to mark your dot Here I am at I move the tack into my hip measurement and then I pull the tape to the last two marks and put my dots.

I leave the tack and tape in the pattern while I draw the outline. Most of my mistakes are above the waist so when doing my pattern I start below the waist for hip marks and then change to my bust measurements so that is what is sitting there as I draw the outline. Not a problem make that curve nicely and it will all be fine. The curve above I did by hand, no tools, just move from dot to dot with a swirl of the pencil.

In another post I will show you how I shorten the length of the top and adjust the armscye and fix the pants for length I add all the markings for the pattern, this is the gathered shoulder And the neck, button band facing is marked and I can just trace a pattern off of this As you can see I ran out of paper on the sleeve it was easy to grab a scrap and tape it there for the next dot.

If you look at the pattern the sleeve curves from the under arm scye. Not a lot and it straightens out quickly and goes down to the wrist. This takes pratice to get an eye for these little things that make fit much better. Here it is all the pieces for the top front, back, neck facing, ruffled collar, sleeve They do not have seam allowances or hems on them. I prefer to add seams etc. This way when I tape each piece to the pattern paper I can leave it taped there in case there is a question of accuracy later.

The miniature pattern is in exactly the same spot as when I drew the pattern and I can easily check my dot placement. Posted by.


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